In this video, USA TODAY photographers Robert Hanashiro and Dan MacMedan talk about how they approach shooting an awards show like the Emmy’s. [Read more…]
Here’s another great lighting setup and walk-through from Karl Taylor as he shoots a bottle and glass of red wine.
He starts with setting up the scene to create warm tones and textures. Then he walks through the lighting setup from the background and accent lights up to the key light as he builds the scene.
Obviously, he’s using Broncolor strobes in the setup but the principles apply across the board with cheaper speedlights and strobes as well.
While he demos the Profoto kit, the same rules apply to smaller speedlight kits and other TTL monolights and flash heads. With purely manual flash communication, however, you are limited to the sync speed of your camera (often around 1/200s) and won’t be able to freeze that motion.
In this short video, Gary Fong takes a look at full frame, APS-C and 1.0-type cameras to see how the depth of field is affected at the same effective focal lengths.
The challenge, of course, is that you must change the actual focal length of your lens to accommodate the same field of view on cameras with different sensor sizes. Invariably, this changes the depth of field so that the camera with the smaller sensor appears to have a much greater depth of field, while the full frame camera has a much shallower depth of field.
Gary’s demo is a nice practical demonstration of how these different camera sensors provide different images when shooting the same scene from the same position.
In this short video, Damien Lovegrove explains how to take low light portraits and retain good exposure and tonal range.
In the first shot, Damien uses a tripod and dials in manual exposure compensation to get the tonal range spot on. In the second shot, Damien uses a monopod and multiple light sources, including a rim light to add depth and separation.
Check out this video from Karl Taylor as he walks through the setup of a stroboscopic sports shot using the Broncolor Scoro packs.
Aside from the lighting setup and programming the intervals into the power packs, the notion of moving the camera during the exposure in order to separate the exposures from the strobes is a very cool technique. As Karl notes, it prevents the strobe exposure from stacking up in areas of the subject that don’t move as much and it also does justice to the composition by separating the subject across the four exposures.
If you’ve never tried stroboscopic or multi-strobe flash photography before, you don’t necessarily need the $10k+ Broncolor Scoro packs. Many system speedlights (e.g., Canon & Nikon) offer a “Multi” mode that will allow you select multiple flash firings during one exposure, along with a frequency rate and power level. Obviously, they are going to be less powerful than the Scoros but can still produce solid stroboscopic results with proper planning.
Check out your flash manual to see if it is compatible.
Check out this short video that highlights 10 composition tips with example photos to make your photography more intentional and interesting.
Yesterday, I shared a video from Profoto that discussed the benefits of high speed sync when shooting in high ambient light outdoors. In this video from Profoto, we get another look at the differences between shooting with ambient light only and adding layers of light using TTL lighting outdoors mixed with available ambient lighting.
Again, the video highlight’s Profoto’s high end AirTTL system using B2 and B1 lights but the same high speed sync can be achieved with smaller and more affordable speedlights from the likes of Canon and Nikon, or even cheaper third-party speedlights.
This short video from Profoto shows how shooting with high-speed sync flashes in daylight can help bring back details in the sky. The advantage of high-speed sync is that you can shoot at much higher shutter speeds than the x-sync rating of your camera. Most systems allow you to go up to 1/8000s, which means you can bring ambient light down without needing a ton of light from your flash.
In this case, they used a single B2 head in a softbox to balance the flash and ambient light. While the Profoto kits can be very expensive, the same effect can be achieved using smaller and more affordable speedlights. If name brand speedlight kits are still too expensive, third-party speedlights are available with the high-speed sync feature for less than $100.
The flow and opacity settings for the brush tools in Photoshop can be a little confusion. Watch this video (tip: content starts 2 minutes in) from Aaron Nace at Phlearn for a great visual explanation of how the flow and opacity settings work.
The basic idea is that the Flow setting allows you to build up ink over and over again, while Opacity gives you a single value of ink on your brush. These settings come in very handy for dodging and burning on images as the above video demonstrates.