It’s just a pity Fuji didn’t get the camera quite right to start with,so contact Fuji ASAP,and get your camera up to speed!

“ON HS10 trying to figure out if in S or P mode or somewhere else if I can set for 3 shot exposure bracketing and RAW and have these settings remain until I reset them without it changing any of the Auto settings in other Modes.”

Yes, AEB is offered by HS10 with raw image.

“Also is there a way to set auto mode to never allow ISO over 400 to avoid grain.”

Yes as well.

One of the photos is original photo (without pro low-light setting) while the other one has. HS10 offers you to choose one of them and compare the two images after you apply the setting in the shot.

HS10 has HDR capability. Please refer to my test here: http://www.pbase.com/middlehill/hs10_dynamic_range

You can screw in any 58mm filter to HS10.

1. No tripod was used.
2. Only resizing and a mild degree of USM has been applied to the resized images.

My comments are:
(1) HS10 offers 24mm with 30x zoom (to 720mm). There is currently no other competitor with such design. I am a user of SLR for nearly 20 years and has been seeking for a single lens/prosumer camera with wide angle and long zoom capability for daily use. I had Tamron 28-300 in the past but still it is too heavy to be a daily-carry camera. I have been waiting and waiting, from the 10x megazoom era, 20x megazoon era and now 30x megazoom era. It is really a good news for me since HS10 starts from 24mm, which is very useful for taking landscape / architecture photos.

(2) In terms of sensor size, although there are many critisms about why Fujifilm did not choose a large sensor in HS10 (e.g., 1/1.7″) as a flagship model, I don’t think that the 1/2.3″ BSI CMOS does a poor job. For sure is that if Fujifilm chose 1/1.7″, the image quality may be better, but the drawback is that the overall size and weight of HS10 would also be increased to such a degree that it may not be suitable as a daily-carry camera. Small camera means that it is better for you to take street snapshots with long zoom end since your subjects would not easily realize what photos you are taking.

(3) In terms of colour, HS10 always produces natural gradations, both in sunny and cloudy days, which is not the same taste as the Fuji SuperCCD (like slide). Personally I love this arragement because it leaves more flexibility in post-editing. If you don’t like post-editing, you can still produce saturated images by setting HS10 in slide mode or adjust the “Colour and Tone” setting inside the HS10 menu.

(4) High ISO performance is very good. I don’t expect a 1/2.3″ sensor could deliver such high quality in high ISO. The newly developed BSI technology and the in-built jpg processing engine in HS10 should be appreciated in this aspect.

(5) CA control is excellent. I can hardly find any CA in photos with high contrasty edge. If you take raw, CA will not be corrected.

(6) Distortion control is also good in jpg. You can hardly find any noticeable distortion in wide angle shot in daily use. For sure is that if you are serious architectual photographer, you would choose DSLR or even lens with manual perspective control. Distortion remains there in raw images.

(7) Lens flare control is nice. In most of the time, the lens flare is acceptable while sometimes you would find lens flare in terms of some small circles at the opposite diagonal side of the light source, which could easily be removed in PS.

(8) Light fall-off is not a big issue in wide angle shot in daily use.

(9) HS10 is not a camera for serious protrait shots although it can zoom to 720mm because the min. focus distance is 2m. The DoF and bokeh effect could not be comparable to DSLR. In my experience, for head shot or half body shot, 300mm is desirable because the min. focus distance could be shorter, thus resulting in a blurrer background. Despite this, DoF and bokeh effect in macro or super macro shots are quite impressive because you can get closer to the subject to create an even blurrer background.

(10) Image stabilization is rather effective.

(11) Built-in flash is reliable in most of the times, but sometimes images would be over-exposued if you adjust auto ISO 1600 or higher. I usually set auto ISO 400 when using built-in flash.

(12) Focus speed is acceptable in properly-lit situations, but rather slow in poorly-lit ones, and sometimes even fail to focus unless you activate the focus assist lamp. Focus assist lamp is not always desirable because it may disturb your subjects. Remember to switch off the focus assist lamp when you take street snapshots.

(13) MF ring is only a gimmick, which is not useful in my opinion.

(14) Sweep panorama in handheld situation is not good. You may have to try many many times to get a successful panorama shots.

(15) Pro-low mode is very good in low-light scenes without tripod.

(16) Multi Motion Capture and Motion Remover Mode are not as good as demonstrated in Fujifilm website. There are many restictions for such modes to deliver successful results.

(17) Black and White mode is good.

(18) Final words: HS10 is good for daily shots, street snapshots, landscape, architecture, close-up, flower and night shots, but not good for protrait, sport, fast-moving objects and baby.

Would be using this mode for HDR shots.

Also is there a way to set auto mode to never allow ISO over 400 to avoid grain.

Thanks